Horrible Mzungu dancer… but improving…
If you’ve ever seen me on the dance floor, you know it’s not pretty. Just envision a train-wreck of elbows, knees, and hips, traveling at different speeds on tracks of disaster. However, my boogying skills have greatly improved since moving to Kampala out of necessity; and by greatly improved I mean people are not continuously laughing and pointing. My increased aptitude can be attributed to two main reasons: first, there’s a ton of live music available to shake your groove thing to; and second, Ugandans can really shake their groove thing! My immersion into the music scene of Kampala has been one of the most enjoyable experiences thus far.
During my first week in Kampala, a young, hip Rotarian (yes… they exist) informed me that Uganda is where “music goes to die.” At times I completely understand his sentiment. As I’ve mentioned before, living next to one of the most popular night clubs provided a crash course in Ugandan popular music; it wasn’t always easy on the ears, let me tell you. The nightly playlist went something like this: 80s pop, Backstreet Boys, Ugandan hit song, Savage Garden, Vanilla Ice, Ugandan hit song, 80s pop, obscure love ballad. And who knew Ugandans love country music? Now don’t get me wrong, I enjoy a good song out of Nashville once in awhile… ok, I’m lying, I despise it all; anyway, everyday that’s what’s blaring as I pipette endlessly in the lab. But, the only thing worse than country music is Celine Dion. And the only thing worse than Celine Dion is her Christmas album… played on repeat in September. My colleagues have great taste in music, what can I say.
Other than being forced to listen to Dolly Parton or Celine’s rendition of “Oh Come All Ye Faithful,” I’m loving the local music. In fact, I’m attempting to be a participant. As some of you may know, I was beginning to learn how to strum a guitar before I left (Erica: Greensleeves??). Since arriving, I have started attending guitar lessons at Kampala Music School. The school is under the direction of a local Rotarian and often takes in pupils that are unable to pay the required fees. My first lesson was basically a “Look-what-I-Can-Do” performance by my instructor. After managing to wrangle the instrument from his grip, I’ve practiced a bit and have mastered most chords, including the impossible F! Hopefully when I return home, I’ll be able to croak out a few songs in Lugandan.
Chamilla, girl at guesthouse, playing my guitar about as well as I do.
The Kampala Music School frequently offers performances by their own students and from guest performers from abroad. I have been lucky enough to attend a recital where all the vocal lesson students performed at the French Ambassdor’s home (where I spotted my first crested crane, Uganda’s national bird!). The students performed solos and in ensembles for about 3 hours of varied selections. One woman named Teddy belted out opera songs by the likes of Puccini and Verdi (don’t be impressed… as close to an Opera expert as I am to being a good dancer). My favorite group performance was that of five men that sang several popular songs including Yesterday by The Beatles (see video below! And please watch it because it took me 2 hours to upload with this tortoise-paced internet). Please note that the name of the tenor on the far left is Charles Dickens (I’ve also been introduced to an Isaac Netwon, Francis Scott Fitzgerald, and none other than Barack Obama himself… a tiny baby strapped to his mama’s back).
Live performances are easy to stumble upon in the city and luckily I’m quite the capable stumbler. I was fortunate enough to attend Susan Kerunen’s concert, in my opinion, the most beautiful woman in all of Uganda. Kerunen is a 29-year-old from the most north-western region of Uganda and sings in Luo (tribal language), English, and Swahili. Although I didn’t understand most songs, it was still an incredible performance. I attended another great concert by the group Afrigo, dubbed Uganda’s most successful band as they’ve produced 17 CDs since 1976. Sticking to a purely Ugandan beat (many other groups mix in Congolese or Western sounds), this group really knows how to get the crowd grooving. It’s no wonder that their drummer, Omwana We Nsenene Herman Ssewanyana, is nicknamed “The King of the Congas.” Ssewanyana also founded another group, Percussion Discussion Afrika which I witnessed at the National Theatre. A mixture of brass and all types of instruments you hit, Discussion produces a truly unique sound.
The best part of these concerts, however, is when a dance circle forms and all the Mzungus are pulled out of the crowd to join; some are literally dragged to the stage but I join happily, relishing any chance I can get to tame my wild elbows and knees. I’ve noticed that most Ugandans love the game “Teach-the-horrible-Mzungu-dancer-how-to-not-dance-like-Elaine-from-Seinfeld.” Any time you’re out doing your thing, you can be assured you will soon feel a tap on your shoulder and turn to see a Ugandan shaking their head at you in disappointment. The next half hour to hour will consist of more head shaking, detailed instructions, high-fiving, possibly a few steps that look somewhat legitimate, and then collapsing into a chair drenched in sweat.
Checking out Percussion Discussion Afrika's instruments!
As I had another impromptu dance lesson last evening, I’m quite exhausted and in need of a good nap at my lovely new (and quiet!) apartment. Please enjoy the links I’ve shared below. Maybe when I return home and see ya’ll on the dance floor, looking as pathetic as I did before this incredible trip, I can be the one tapping shoulders and shaking my head. Get ready to move everybody!
The a Capella was really good! And you’re right, the F is the hardest of the open chords
btw do they know the Wooster stomp? Tell them it’s famous!!!
The 5 singing “Yesterday” were amazing!! Wish you could have gotten the whole song!
read blog again. your first guitar lesson sounded like the spring recitals in Barnesville.
Any coincidence the first to letters of Uganda are UG???? Hmm? Ha! My attempt at a lame joke. And I also would like to point out that I love Celine Dion.
two* That’s embarrassing.