Fort Portal… a much needed escape

Now don’t get me wrong… I love Kampala.  But after over six weeks of black exhaust fumes, countless piles of trash, loud nights, and robberies (will explain later), I needed to get OUT.  So after very little planning, a friend and I hopped on a bus west.  Just outside the city limits the rolling Ugandan countryside, roaming cows in the road, and waving children began to lift my Kampala blues.  After the beautiful five hour ride (huge tea plantations, fields of papyrus, Rwenzori mountains in the distance) we arrived in the quaint town of Fort Portal.

After checking into the Exotic Lodge (which was anything but exotic costing less than $2.00 per person) we began to explore on foot.  The first point of interest was a large circular building on the hilltop overlooking the town.  This turned out to be the palace for the King of the Toro Kingdom (we left the Buganda Kingdom in Kampala) which was renovated by funds donated from the Libyan dictator, Gaddafi, and possessed a spectacular view.  After becoming a bit unnerved by the guards with guns, we headed down the hill for discovery of other sites: a beautiful seminary school, a breathtaking mosque, and the local library (which included an “American Corner” with classic American literature, maps, and a sign that read “Reading owns modernization”).  After eating a huge plate of traditional Ugandan dishes, which set us back only 75 cents each, it was time to hit the sack.

Fort Portal viewed from Toro Kingdom palace.

For the next day we had arranged a biking tour of local villages, forests, and lakes.  Our guide, Simon, met us bright and early at 8:30, presented us with our somewhat dilapidated bikes, and we were off.  After venturing from the main road, we meandered on dirt paths through villages, past huge rock outcroppings, and amazing vistas.  After stopping at a relative’s farm to see their pet guinea pigs (turns out they look exactly like ours back home and are just as much fun… so not much), we arrived at the first crater lake, a body of water made from a volcanic crater. Although the name of the lake escapes me, it was aptly named, meaning “God-loved area” in the local language.   After staring in awe at its blue-green waters and surrounding lush vegetation while repeatedly exclaiming “wow”, we began our forest walk around the perimeter.  The hike provided a closer look at the flora and fauna, four ant bites, and the opportunity to fall only three times (Simon started to keep track of my tumbles).   We climbed up to the rim of the lake where Simon instructed me how to greet the local farmers tending their fields of Irish potatoes, cassava, and millet (“Oli otya!).  We hopped back on the bikes, saw two more lakes, climbed two more hills (I considered them baby mountains), and started the ride back to town.  Now after seven hours of hiking/biking in the African sun with a bike that wouldn’t change gears properly and had a seat that was practically vertical (my bum is still sore), my legs felt quite wobbly and I was seeing stars; I collapsed on the picnic table outside the tour agency.  Trust me, I slept very well that night.

Simon and I in front of a crater lake.

After examining my handy Uganda travel guide (thanks mommy!), we decided to head to a nature reserve about 12 km away overlooking Lake Nkuruba.  My poor sore, derriere had to endure a 45 minute boda ride with a poorly placed metal bar on the seat, but it was well worth it.  The nature reserve was perfect: monkeys everywhere, cute little bandas, a lovely lake, and friendly staff.  My friend and I headed off with no particular destination in mind; after a 7 hour hike, we had visited the small village of Rwaihamba, Lakes Kifuruku and Lyantonde, the Mahoma River, and had been shouted at by countless children.  Nearly everyone waved to us as we traipsed by, reminding me of returning to my hometown after being away at school.  After a refreshing cold shower, the evening past idly as we chatted with two friendly British girls trekking across East Africa.

View from nature reserve... can you spot the monkey?

The next morning we caught a more comfortable boda to Fort Portal where we boarded a bus (which kept playing the same ten music videos over and over) back to Kampala and its madness.  However, after my days of respite, it is easier to recognize the excitement, intrigue, and even beauty of the city.  I’m now ready to face the taxi parks, bustling neighborhoods, and endless jams… at least for another 6 weeks.

Flowers and mountains.

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